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Conquering Ultra Bouncy Tables Part - 5

In dealing with trampoline layouts that have a ton of spring and bounce, we not only have to look at controlling the inbound flight and initial impact of the dice on the table, but we also have to fully consider the outbound reaction and travel-distance after they hit the backwall.

Think about all the times you've throw on bouncy tables when the inbound dice-flight looked absolutely perfect. Both cubes flew through the air in perfectly matched mirror-like formation and continued that way even after they first hit the table. In fact, think of all the times when both dice emulated each other in faultless synchronicity and impacted the backwall together in what looked like a flawless textbook throw…only to witness each of them to ending up with an entirely different rebound path and distance from the backwall (and to each other)…and with a totally different, facially-and-axially-mismatched random outcome.

Let’s try to resolve the rest of that bouncy table dilemma right now…

Backwall Rebound Distance and Straightness
Upon release, both dice should be flat and square to both the table-surface itself as well as to the backwall.

That means the dice should be perfectly horizontally level with the table and vertically square with the backwall. There is an excellent discussion of precisely how to do this on each and every toss that you make on your practice-table at home and how to accurately transfer that skill to the real-world tables  titled   
Current Practice...Future Profit - Part Nine

By hitting the backwall squarely, the dice should roll STRAIGHT BACK.

If they are moving IN ANY OTHER DIRECTION than straight back, then they are NOT hitting the backwall squarely, or they are hitting the wall too far up into the alligator-pyramids and letting it RERANDOMIZE your up-until-now-DERANDOMIZED throw.

If the dice are rebounding at any other ANGLE than straight back, then the dice are not IMPACTING SQUARELY in relation to either the table surface or to the backwall...or both.

In most cases the cure is pretty simple:

The bottom-plane of both dice have to be thrown perfectly horizontal to the table surface.

If the dice are tilted to the left or right to any degree; then their first impact with the table is going to send them towards the backwall in an off-kilter orientation (if both of them get there at all). Then, once they hit the backwall, that orientation will almost always be random or at least not facially or axially coordinated (which in my book is as close to random as “damn” is to swearing).

Equally, both dice have to be thrown square to the backwall and they have to be released from your hand in a perfectly square manner too. That means that one die cannot lead or lag behind the other, and they both have to have exactly the same spin-rate as the other.

As well, both dice have to follow the exact same flight-path trajectory. If one die is flying slightly higher or lower than the other, then its initial touchdown point will be a little different from the other, and by the time both dice hit the backwall and rebound from it, they will be completely out of synch, and therefore they will no longer be acting in mirror-like formation to each other…and the outcome will most likely be random.

Tied in with all of that is the amount of throwing-energy with which the dice hit the backwall. If the dice are bouncing off the backwall then rebounding and traveling more than 4 or 5 inches from the backwall or from each other; then you are throwing them WAY too hard for the ULTRA Low, Slow, and Easy Toss to work properly or perform with any level of consistency.

The idea behind the ULTRA LS&E is to TAME a bouncy table with refined subtlety, so a hard throw that tries to beat it into submission simply WILL NOT WORK.

Acute finesse is the rule, not the exception in terms of conquering these layouts.

Trust me, you will not lose your virility nor will your patriotism be called into question if you use a nice and gentle toss…especially if it produces some winning payouts.

A low-energy, low-trajectory, low-spin toss that is horizontal to the table-top and square to the backwall is what most super-bouncy tables need…and REWARD.

Mistakes Are Magnified, But Uniformity is Rewarded
When players first encounter any of these super-bounce, ultra-jounce trampoline tables, they are almost always surprised to find that a slight toss defect that they could normally get away with on a regular hard, soft-neutral, or unresponsive-dead table; is magnified and exaggerated on these ones.

For example, if your dice-release normally imparts a tiny little bit of wobble (that is almost imperceptible unless you practice with a laser or DiceDoc’s two-dice-glued-together DiceBarrel); many less-bouncy table-surfaces are somewhat forgiving and the dice will still remain on-axis and in-phase to each other despite that slight release-point defect. However, that very same toss on these bouncy tables may see one die fly off in a totally unexpected direction as soon as it hits the table or rebounds from the backwall, while the other one goes into a death-spiral spin that lasts for what seems like minutes; or before it even hits the wall, it just flops over dead like a Hollywood stunt dog.

Needless to say, ultra bouncy tables magnify your mistakes and turn small errors into what appear to be major throwing blunders. These tables will either force you to get back to the very basics of what dependable dice-influencing is all about…or they’ll drive you completely nuts.

The choice is entirely up to you.

Though you can get away with a fairly sloppy toss on a lot of tables, especially the dead, neutral and unresponsive ones; bouncy tables will take you to task on each and every toss that isn’t near-perfect.

There’s a benefit to that though.

To my mind, bouncy tables can make you a better, more technically-honest, more consistent dice-influencer in that you have to ensure that every toss is flat and horizontal to the table-top, and square and parallel to backwall.

Bouncy tables teach you how to meter, gauge and regulate every element within your grip-pressure and finger-alignment, your muscularly-harmonious toss-motion, your smoothly-coordinated release-point and follow-through, your spin-rate, your throwing-energy, your flight-path trajectory, your initial target-area, and the proper vertical and horizontal orientation of your entire toss.


In other words, bouncy tables can help you become a much better player…faster.

That is, you either master your grip-pressure, finger-alignment, toss-motion, release-point, spin-rate, throwing-energy, flight-path trajectory, initial target-area, and the proper orientation of the dice quickly…or you’ll continue to lose money nearly every time you pick up the dice.

Needless to say then, the side benefit of mastering your throw on these super-trampoline tables is that when you take your game back to a normal layout, I can pretty much guarantee that your basic toss will be flatter, straighter and technically purer than it ever was before you conquered these ultra bouncy tables.


In Part Six, I'm going to show you a couple of other things you can try on these tables if everything else fails.

Until then,

Good Luck and Good Skill at the Tables…and in Life.

The Mad Professor

Copyright © 2007-2008

 

 

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This page contains a single entry from the blog posted on August 13, 2008 6:41 PM.

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