tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2010:/chuck//7 2010-01-25T18:51:04Z Charlie009 Shares a Lifetime of Craps and Dice Setting Knowledge. Movable Type 3.34 tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2008:/chuck//7.819 2008-08-24T21:37:23Z 2009-02-08T20:55:11Z

The amount of your bankroll will be directly related to your comfort zone and affordability....

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html The amount of your bankroll will be directly related to your comfort zone and affordability. Part 24 – Bankroll August 24, 2008 I would suggest that you read or review Part 4 before getting into bankroll size. Once the scared money issue is out of the way we can concentrate on what is an intelligent amount of money to be put at risk. The size of the bankroll per session will be directly related to the table minimum and your affordability. Your ability as an advantage player will also be taken into account along with the average number of players at the table. My style of betting and managing money may not coincide with your style and should be seen as an example only. When playing at the boats we usually end up playing at crowded tables and at the mercy of what’s available to us. The minimum rated tables are usually $5, $10, $15 and $25. The $10 table being the most common. The tables usually average ten shooters. For the following examples we will say that I am the only DI at the table. When at a rare $5 table, I would buy in for $200 and that buy-in would be my stop loss figure for that session. $100 would be used for betting on “Randies”. Betting a $5 pass-line or $6 place six on each player at the table. Worst case scenario, I would be able to play two complete rounds without winning. The other $100 would be used for my betting only when I had the dice. This will keep me at the table in play for close to two hours. One or two of the “Randies” might make you a few bucks and if you do your thing, you should survive for awhile till lightning strikes. How you handle the wins is a matter of money management. Right now we are looking at making the most out of our bankroll. If at a $10 table, I would buy in for $400 with a stop-loss set at $300. $200 for betting on the “Randies” and $100 on myself. No more than $50 per turn with the dice. If at a $15 table, I would buy in for $500 with a stop-loss set at $400. Having $300 available for betting on the”Randies” and $100 on myself. $25 table; Buy in for $1,000. Stop loss $600. For This level of play check with the Mad Professor and have your heart checked. When in Las Vegas my buy-ins is usually double the figures mentioned above. This is for comp purposes at the hotel I’m staying at. My stop-loss figures are pretty much the same. Learn to play within you’re bank roll and heed your stop-loss figure. You will be surprised at how far your bankroll will go. Remember, it’s not the size of the bankroll that counts, it’s the way you apply the bankroll. Make sure you have a bankroll survival plan in place. Eliminate scared money. Build a bankroll from surplus funds and then insert your money management plan Charlie009 Copyright 2008 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2008:/chuck//7.820 2008-08-26T23:37:01Z 2009-02-08T20:43:15Z

Money Management or how can I keep what I got and still enjoy the thrill of playing the game of...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html Money Management or how can I keep what I got and still enjoy the thrill of playing the game of craps? August 26,2008 ]]> We saw in Part 4 that we must eliminate the practice of playing with scared money. In Part 24 we exposed you to betting a minimal amount on the ten Randies at your table. This style of play lets you bet on all of the random rollers at the table allowing a minimum one unit bet on each. This is a worst case scenario and should be treated as such. There are ways to bring this table of ten down to a manageable number with less risk. If there are ten RR’s at the table and you are at a $10 table and you may bet one unit on the RR if your buy-in was $400. You have $200 to bet on the RR’s and $200 to bet on yourself. Let’s look at the single unit bet on the RR’s. We will call it our “Bet-em-all” style of play. I would bet $12 on the place eight. If Randy sevens out, you will lose $12. If eight RR’s seven out without tossing an eight, you are out $96. In this worst case scenario, you would back off betting the last two RR’s. This style of betting will have you on a Randy, if he should get into a hot roll. Any kind of hot roll will have some six and eights and you hope to be on one or the other when it happens. Now you have the dice and $50 allocated to your turn. I would make a $10 pass line bet with single odds and $12 placed on the six and eight and a $6 C&E bet. The C&E bet is not recommended for novice players. You don’t have to bet the entire $50 on your turn. You might opt to just play the pass line with single odds. With this type of allocation of funds you will be able to make at least two complete rounds and two turns with the dice. If you are not seeing any light at the end of the tunnel, it’s time to apply your stop loss at $300 or a figure of your choosing The expectancy of the eight showing every 7.2 tosses will come into play in a random game. How you play the eight when it hits is up to you. You have the option of coming down with a profit of $14 and you have just eliminated one Randy and gained a free ride on the next one. Another option is to spread to the six if you feel the shooter has any ability. You can just stay up and go for a second hit. Any time you can eliminate a randy without making a bet is good money management. Remember, this is a worst case scenario and we must try to eliminate betting on as many RR’s as possible. Some sessions will turn into everybody throwing sevens and you may be faced with some of the worst players in the world. That is why we must try to avoid as many RR’s as possible. If you feel you have to have action, try betting on just every other one. This eliminates half the field. If you have a place bet on a Randy and he throws like a jerk, pull your bet down. The dealer will have noticed that you made a bet on the guy to start out with. Look for the least little thing to not bet or take your bet down. If you don’t like his looks, don’t bet him. The Suits are more interested in what the shooter is doing and won’t be too interested in what you are doing. If you have been standing around and not betting, the Suits or box person might tell the stick person to by-pass you. If the guy to your right has a hot roll, you might start yelling for everybody to pass the dice back to him. Your going to get the dice next anyhow and you want to avoid that quick seven-out that usually follows a good hand. If a shooter is setting the dice and has a nice toss, jump on him and skip the next shooter. On your place bet, try using the reverse five count. If you haven’t got a hit on the fifth toss, pull your place bet down. Make sure you make a pass-line bet when the player on your right has the dice. All these little maneuvers will help you preserve your bankroll till you can get your hands on the dice. Then it’s show time. Charlie009 Copyright 2008 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2008:/chuck//7.846 2008-11-01T16:59:10Z 2008-11-01T18:11:34Z

The Toss Flight There are two lines of thought on how high you should throw the dice....

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html The Toss Flight There are two lines of thought on how high you should throw the dice. ]]> Charlie009 Copyright 2008]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2008:/chuck//7.847 2008-11-01T17:45:40Z 2008-11-01T18:19:27Z

Forget the Complimentarities (Comps) Forget about all those “Comps”! The casinos have the crapshooter so worried about getting comped that...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html Forget the Complimentarities (Comps) Forget about all those “Comps”! The casinos have the crapshooter so worried about getting comped that he can’t see straight. ]]> “Comp Craze”.If you should get a “comp,” be thankful and count it as a profit. That said; let’s get back to the point! Forget the “comps” and play your style of craps. Don’t try to impress the pit bosses or anyone else. Just play your own method of craps and you will be at the tables for longer periods of play. Who knows, maybe the floor manager will feel sorry for you and throw you a bone! Charlie009 Copyright 2008 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2008:/chuck//7.852 2008-12-12T22:38:15Z 2009-02-04T19:05:27Z

Part 28 – Betting the Iron Cross Simply put, the Iron Cross can be a beautiful tool to add to...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html Part 28 – Betting the Iron Cross Simply put, the Iron Cross can be a beautiful tool to add to your arsenal. Other players will watch you with envie while you collect on every throw of the dice.]]> “The Iron Cross” is one of my favorite betting strategies. It's a play that should be worked into gradually and should be used only sparingly on random rollers. It’s very useful when another advantage player has the dice and is throwing nothing but “field” numbers. How many times have you been at the table where you keep throwing “field” numbers till you can’t stand it and throw out a field bet out of frustration? Been there and done that! Let’s go over the semantics on betting the “Iron Cross”. First of all I equate the word “Iron” as meaning strong play when it is properly put into place. The “Cross” is what the bets look like when in place. This may be stretching it a bit but you will get the idea. The objective of the play is to have bets on the 5, 6, 8 and “field”. That puts you in position to gain a win no matter what number is thrown as long as it is not a SEVEN. If the seven shows, you lose all four bets. That’s the down side of the play. What we have to do is work our way into the “Iron Cross” set up. There will be times when your normal play will put you in position to move quickly into the “Cross” bets. One example is when you have the dice and have just established the point of five. My automatic play would be to take double odds behind the pass line. (We will use a $10 minimum table in all examples.) Then I would place the six and eight for $12 each. This is a standard move by a lot of players. Now I can set back and wait for a couple hits or even make my point. When I feel comfortable getting about most of my initial bet of $54 off the table, I would consider pressing the six and eight up one unit to $18 each. One more hit and I would press one more unit on the six and eight to $24 each. At this point I’m thinking “Iron Cross”. I would then make a $10 “field” bet. The “Iron Cross” is set. One more hit and I am a happy camper. I would press the six and eight up to $30 each. I have $30 on the point of five and I will try to remember to keep the $10 “field” bet on board. My goal is to maintain $30 on the six and eight, $25 on the five and double odds on what ever ends up the point. At this point of the game if the seven shows, I should be close to even or ahead. I love it when 5, 6, or 8 is the point. There is always the chance that you can work into the “iron Cross” slowly by just letting the game come to you. Suppose you are playing just the six and eight place bets and a fellow DI has ten for the point. You might of pressed upward a couple of times and have your initial $24 bet back in your rack. It’s time to think about throwing a place bet on the five and forget about the ten. If the DI is setting the V2, there could be a lot of “field” numbers coming up and you want to be ready to take advantage of it. Sometimes I will just place the eight on RR’s. If the RR throws a quick eight, I might tell the dealer, give me a six. A couple hits and we go to work after we get our $12 off the board. The “Iron Cross” is a beautiful money tree when you get into a nice run. You can harvest a good crop of chips when those “field” numbers start to grow. Keep in mind that you can get burned up if the seven shows up early in the roll. Once you are set up and nothing but 5, 6 and 8’s are hitting, get off the “field” bet in a hurry. If you are in a really long roll, you can press upward one unit on each number as the hit. Just make sure you put that green chip in your rack. You will be surprised how you can turn a negative session into a profitable one by using a little common since. Stay alert. Nothing is more aggravating than to forget to replace your “field” bet and a twelve or two comes up and you miss a double payout. You might tell the stick to remind you of your field bet. When setting up and playing the “Iron Cross”, take it slow and easy and let the “Cross” come to you. There will be sessions where you won’t get a chance to set it up on the cheap. Setting it up before you bailed out your seed money is suicide. Charlie009 Copyright 2008 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2008:/chuck//7.872 2008-12-27T01:23:25Z 2010-01-10T17:51:40Z

Playing your signature number is a must to take advantage of your shooting skills....

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html Playing your signature number is a must to take advantage of your shooting skills. Part 29 - Playing Signature Numbers There are several ways to determine your signature number or numbers. One of the best ways to find out what your signature number could be is to use “Bone Tracker”, created by Maddog. This tool will give you a lot of good stuff like if you are on axis, single or double pitching, what sets are best for you to come up with that signature number. If my signature number was five, I would make sure I had a bet on it from the get go. It’s very likely that six or eight will always be one of your signature numbers. If the point were 4, 9 or 10, I would place the 5 and 6. My odds on the point would equal the amount I had bet on the 5 and 6. That would be $25 on the 5, $30 on the 6 and 2Xodds on the point. $80 at risk! This can be scaled up or down based on one’s buy in. If 5 were my point, I would be inclined to put 4Xodds on the 5 which is allowed in Vegas. Then I would place bet the 6 and 8. My routine is to bet only three numbers until I have my initial bets off the board. My signature number would be the fist number I would consider pressing. If you are really on your game, you might consider just betting your signature number if it is the point and loading up on behind the line with more odds. You can just place bet your number also and press right off the bat. Keep in mind that your results on your practice at home may not match in casino play. If you are not throwing expected fours or tens, don’t bet them. I think if you read Part 28 on how to work up to the Iron Cross play, you will see it is a way to work up to where you want to be with minimal risk. If you don’t want to bother with all the computer entries, there are other ways to determine your signature number. One such way which I call the “Signature Line Count” (SLC), is to count out 36 white chips. Use one set and one grip for all your tosses. Each time you toss the dice, place one chip on the number that you tossed etc. until your have used all 36 chips. You will see real quick what number stands out. Take it one step further and throw another 36 tosses using red chips. Yes, it would be good to do another 36 with green chips. You will see right away what number or two numbers are starting to show up more than the others. If you don’t have the chips or table layout you will have to stroke each toss on paper or make a chart. I cannot stress enough on how your in casino results may and probably will differ from your home results. Another way to look at charting Recently I was asked by one of our board members what my feelings were towards charting or recording tosses in the real world. From my own experience I would say that unless you have a casino type 12 or 14 foot table to practice on, you will be reacting on false information. You are dammed if you do and dammed if you don’t. I charted from the first day I started setting the dice back in 2000. All of 60,000 tosses were on my converted pool table. This activity provided me with false information like “nine” was my signature number. Back in those days I didn’t have “Bone Tracker” to help out with the recording of the tosses.” Bone Tracker” was giving me information that pertained to my pool table The problem was when I went to the casino I was faced with a whole new set of circumstances and table conditions. I was throwing a bunch of eights and hardly any nines. Technically recording your in-casino tosses will give you a more realistic signature number or numbers. However I have a problem with that. I for one do not like the idea of standing at the table with a note pad and pen and recording every body’s toss or just my own. What this does is bring you to the attention of the pit vipers and box person and cause them to watch you closely when it’s your turn to shoot. Id rather takes my chances on my feeble memory bank. The last thing I want to do is draw attention to my self when I get the dice. I want them to think of me as that bumbling old man that tips when he has the dice. My advice would be that if you think it’s worth the gamble and you feel comfortable doing it, then record away. Whether it does any good, well that’s up to you to decide. Good luck and good shooting. Charlie009 Copyright 2008]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2008:/chuck//7.873 2008-12-29T20:39:08Z 2008-12-29T21:31:45Z

Regressing your bet's main purpose is to remove your capital in jeopardy, but still have some chips in play....

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html Regressing your bet's main purpose is to remove your capital in jeopardy, but still have some chips in play.]]> Part 30 - Regressing Your Bets December 29,2008 Regressing my bets! I very rarely regress my bets. When I do, I will bet the inside numbers and when they get one or two hits, I would regress down to the two unit stage. Example: At a 2 unit, $10 table I would bet $25 on the 5 and 9 and $30 on the 6 and 8. If the point is one of the inside numbers, I would put $20 in odds behind the $10 PL. That’s $110 inside and in jeopardy. If I regress to two units after one hit, I now have $44 in play and only $9 in jeopardy. A second hit puts $14 in my rack for a $5 profit, none of my money is at risk and I have four numbers working. From this point on I have options. I can press each number as it hits and show a $2 profit on a one unit press. Repeat hits on the same number calls for a one unit press. When I am back up to $25 or $30’s on my inside numbers, I would only bet $10 presses and bank $25 on each hit from then on. I prefer to work with three numbers or less and when I have my money off the board I would press only one unit at a time. The secret to good money management is to always put 50% or more from each winning hit in your rack. The hardest thing to do in this game is to say, “Take me down.” When you have been in a hot roll for awhile and you have four or five numbers loaded up, how many hits is it going to take to equal what you have on the board? Listen to that little guy in your head and call all your bets off. That’s another $110 or more profit you can put in the bank. Pictured below is a simple way to see how you would fair during three sequences of rolls. The first using white chips and ending with a seven out after eight tosses. The next roll I used red chips and went seven out after ten tosses. The green chips represent sixteen tosses before the seven out. By looking at the results you can get an idea of how regressing your bets would have worked out. I threw two more tosses to round out a 36 toss session. The three seven outs resulted in a SRR of 12 for the session. Three sequences of tosses is not really enough but you will get the idea of what to expect. The practice routine will help show you that elusive signature number that has a way of changing on you. Charlie009 Copyright 2008 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2009:/chuck//7.874 2009-01-12T18:41:20Z 2009-02-04T18:50:14Z

To become a fully rounded player, it is necessary to know the pros and cons of playing the DON’T PASS...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html DON’T PASS LINE and the DON’T COME box. ]]> Don’t players, some times known as “Wrong Players” and “Dark Side Players” are a minority group of players. They are usually quiet and very often pass the dice. You can usually spot a “Don’t player at the dealers hook so he can be close to that Don’t Come box on the layout. Players that play the “Don’t,” are sometimes referred to as playing the dark side. I guess it is because they seem to put a dark cloud over a table of enthusiastic players. Here is a play on words! If the “Don’t” player is considered a “Wrong” better by betting on the seven to show, then the players betting that the seven doesn’t show, must be the “Right Players”. When we run into a cold table, the first reaction is to jump on the “Dark Side”. A couple come-out sevens soon discourage that. How could that happen to us on a cold table? Mathematics my friend! The grass always looks greener on the other side of the table. Let’s look at what is happening. Both the Pass Line and the Don’t Pass Line pay even money. What are the expectations of each bet? Looking for a PL winner, we have 8 chances in 36 to win our PL bet or 4.5 to 1. The expectations of the DP winning on the come-out are 3 chances in 36 or 12 to 1. That’s a pretty steep wall to climb to get on board with a DP bet. Now let’s look at the behind the line odds bet. At a $5 table we have $5 on the PL and take single odds of $5 for a total of $10 at risk. The point is ten. The Darksider puts $5 on the DP and takes $10 odds for a total of $15 at risk. For his $15 risk, he can win $10. For our $10 at risk, we can win $15. The point of ten pays the right better 2 to 1 odds and pays the wrong better 1 to 2 odds. I guess we know why they call “Don’t” betters “Wrong” betters. Once the point is established we have a new set of expectations. An expectation of winning ten as the point is 1 chance in 12. The “Don’t” better has 1 chance in 6. What the “Don’t” player has to decide is if you want to take the risk of the opening come-out, verses the advantage you pick up after the point is established. All expectations are based on the 36 possible results on the toss of a pair of dice. The question you have to consider is whether the 33 expectations of keeping your PL bet in play outweighs the 28 expectations of the DP bet being kept alive. It’s obvious that the PL bet has the advantage on the come out. With a point established and the DP player bet is still alive, he has 6 expectations out of 36 to win his bet or 33, 32, or 31 possibilities of keeping his bet alive, depending on the point. The PL better will have 30 possibilities of staying alive, no matter what the point is. The best case scenario for the DP better is for the point to be four or ten. The advantage the PL play has over the DP play on the come-out, out weighs the advantage the DP gains after the point is established. It’s a close call, but when you are in doubt about what to do at a choppy or cold table, play the expectation game. The “Don’t Come” bet expectations are the same as the PL and DP expectations. Your odd’s bet will be the reverse of the come bet. For a six or eight DC bet, you would have to bet $6 to win $5. For the five and nine you would have to bet $6 to win $4. For the four and ten you would have to bet $6 to win $3. In my simplistic way of thinking, why would you want to bet more to win less when you can bet less to win more? Taking odds on “Don’t” bets can be hazardous to your bankroll. When I go on tilt on a really cold table, I will bet more straight up on the DP and take no odds. A win will get me even money. If I took odds I would receive less then even money for what I invested or put at risk. A good dice influencer can change the odds into his favor, no matter what side he plays on. If you have the dice you can change that cold table to your advantage. When someone else has the dice you are at their mercy and you would do good to heed the expectation game. The great full time gambler, “Nick the Greek” mostly played the dark side. He died broke. Charlie009 Copyright 2009 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2009:/chuck//7.875 2009-01-12T21:04:48Z 2009-01-12T21:32:55Z

Part 32 - Playing the six and eight on random rollers The question I get the most these days is,...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html Part 32 - Playing the six and eight on random rollers The question I get the most these days is, “How do you play the random rollers? ]]> I love playing six and or eights on RR’s. Some times I will just play the eight on them. If it hits, I can press, spread to the six or come down depending if I like the looks of the shooter. Remember, the key to good money management is to get your investment off the table ASAP and play with the casino’s chips. It’s very important to know the expectations of every random toss. There are 36 possible outcomes on a randomly thrown pair of dice. In 36 tosses, the seven is expected to show six times. The six and eight each are each expected to show five times. Bet together, they are expected to show ten times as compared to six times for the seven. That makes the six and eight a very powerful pair. It’s the best deal in town and even gets better when you or a DI has the dice and you set for the six and eight. Charlie009 Copyright 2009 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2009:/chuck//7.885 2009-01-29T21:22:18Z 2009-02-06T18:12:45Z

BUY BETS and LAY BETS are another way for the casinos to get you to bet more on each shooter...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html BUY BETS and LAY BETS are another way for the casinos to get you to bet more on each shooter on the assumption that you will be attracted by a full odds payout for a 5% assessment. The Buy Bet ]]> A “Buy Bet” is a bet you have to pay a fee for the privilege of making the play. Usually the four and ten are the only box numbers that attract this type of action. With the buy bet you are betting that the shooter or you will make the point. There are times when a player, or even yourself, will notice fours or tens are showing up more than expected. Instead of placing the four or ten for $25 and receiving 9 to 5 for a potential $45 pay out, you can tell the dealer to buy the four or ten and toss him a green chip. If you win the bet you will be paid full 2 to 1 odds, minus your $1 fee for a $49 win. The casinos will not charge you if you lose the bet. If you want to buy more than the $25 on the four and ten, you can sometimes push the casinos to let you buy $20 up to $39 for the $1 fee. Usually the $1 fee goes up $1 for each $25 you buy. Players sometimes buy the five and nine, but it is only worthwhile at higher bet amounts. The four and ten should always be bought if it is going to be played. Is the buy bet worth while? If you are a type person who likes to throw manhole covers around or you are a strong dice influencer you can take your chances at throwing four or tens at three chances in thirty-six. Not for me! You can take your buy bet down at any time. The Lay Bet “Lay Bets” are much the same as the buy bet. The difference is you can bet that a seven will show before a particular number. Instead of placing numbers to win, you can “Lay” box numbers to lose. Say you lay the four and ten and the shooter throws a four. You lose the four. You still have the ten working but if the shooter Seven’s out, you win on the ten. If the shooter throws a “Lay” box number, that number loses. If the shooter throws a seven, all laid box numbers win. The object of this play is to receive true odds on your winnings, minus commission. Just like the “Buy” bet, it will cost you a 5% commission when you win. Different areas might want the 5% up front. You can take any or all “Lay” bets down at any time. You also have the option to turn off all your box number bets at any time. “Turn my box number bets off”, means your bets will stay on the layout but will have no action until you tell the dealer to turn your bets back on. Your turnoff action will be indicated by a little button with “off” marked on it. The dealer will place the off button on your box bets and periodically ask if you want to remain off. This type of play is a guessing game and can be hazardous to your bankroll. Charlie009 Copyright 2009 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2009:/chuck//7.886 2009-02-02T19:49:41Z 2009-02-15T19:02:34Z

The “Fire Bet” has been around for awhile and is another means of separating the craps player’s chips from the...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html “Fire Bet” has been around for awhile and is another means of separating the craps player’s chips from the safety of the rail. Unless you are an accomplished dice influencer, you will see how fast your bankroll burns up. ]]> The rules are simple. All you have to do is put a $1 to $5 bet in chips on the little designated circle in front of you located about eight inches in back of the Pass Line. The dealer will snatch your bet up and place it on a numbered circle corresponding to your location at the table. The bet is placed on your position number at the top of the proposition area in front of the box person. The object of the game is for the shooter to make four, five or six different box numbers (4, 5, 6, 8, 9, and 10) as the point before the seven-out occurs. Repeating numbers don’t count. Most casinos require you to have a Pass Line bet on board to play the Fire Bet. Each time the shooter makes a point the dealer will place a fancy marker on the point made. To win, you have to make four different points or more before the seven ends the roll. If the shooter makes four different points the payout will be paid 25 for 1. Make five different points and the payout will be 250 for 1. If the shooter hit’s the big casino with six different points, all the box numbers, the payout is 1,000 for 1. Sounds simple! For a maximum bet of $5, this pie in the sky attraction could pay $5,000. How practical is the bet? Over the last couple years the Fire Bet has been with us, I have only hit it once for a four point payout. The 21 to 25% casino edge is not to my liking. Charlie009 Copyright 2009 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2009:/chuck//7.890 2009-02-06T22:24:27Z 2009-02-15T18:11:44Z

A Hop Bet is where you call out two numbers that add up to the face value of a pair...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html A Hop Bet is where you call out two numbers that add up to the face value of a pair of dice thrown on the come roll or any other roll. It’s a one roll bet. Hop Bets You make the bet by tossing a chip to the proposition area on the layout and say, “Five, one on the hop,” or “Sixes hopping five, one.” If the combination five, one comes up, you win 15 times what you bet. If any other combination shows up, like 2, 4 or 3, 3 you lose. Another way of betting on the Hop is to tell who ever will listen, the dealer. stick or box person, that you want, “$3 all sevens hopping”. This means you have all the combinations of the seven covered. (3-4, 2-5, and 1-6) If a seven is thrown you win $15. Press the bet and you will have $5 going on each of the three possible sevens for a total $15 bet. If the next roll is a seven you win $75 for your $3 investment. This can be an attractive bet for the accomplished dice influencer. How many times have you seen back to back sevens thrown on the come-out roll? A $1 hop bet on the 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4, 5-5, and 6-6 outcome will get you $30. Sounds simple but the percentages are too inflationary for my blood. This is a good bet for the whales who want to impress everyone how much they don’t know about the game. Charlie009 Copyright 2009 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2009:/chuck//7.891 2009-02-06T22:39:55Z 2009-02-08T20:30:57Z

The gimmick bets are starting to take over the top of the proposition area and is causing a layout overload...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html The gimmick bets are starting to take over the top of the proposition area and is causing a layout overload for the casino. Four Rolls No Seven Starting on the come-out roll, if you throw four times without throwing a seven, you win even money. That’s it! Bet $25, win $25. Bets start at whatever the casino decide to set as a minimum. If it is a $5 table you will most likely have to bet at least a $5 minimum. The maximum is what the casino decides. Advantage players should have a field day with this bet. I tried it for one session and won three out of four tries. Part 36.2 – High-Low Layout space is in such demand that they had to dump the Big 6&8 from the corner it has held for years. This was to make room for their “High-Low” gizmo game. Simply put, all you have to do is pace a bet on the High (8, 9, 10, 11) or Low (3, 4, 5, 6) and if one of your selected group of numbers is thrown, you win even money. You also can bet the two or twelve and it will pay 5 for 1. It’s a one roll bet. Looking at the downside of the bet we see that a bet on the High or Low would have 14 expected chances to win and 22 expected losing results. The odds are 11 to 7 you will lose the bet. Part 36.3 – All Bet Simplicity is the only good side to this bet. All you have to do is throw all the numbers 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 before you seven-out. IF you do it, you will receive 175 for 1. Part 36.4 – Small, Tall Bet If you can toss 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 before throwing a seven you win. If you toss 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 before a seven you win. Win the Small or the Tall; you will be paid 35 for 1. Part 36.5 - - BIG 6&8 The BIG 6 &8 is slowly being fazed out of the game and being replaced by the High-Low bet. I haven’t seen anyone play those corner bets very often. The casino will keep trying to come up with something to attract the attention of the unwary. Just treat that corner as being off limits. Charlie009 Copyright 2009 ]]> tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2009:/chuck//7.927 2009-10-14T17:23:15Z 2009-10-14T17:42:47Z

Grading your tosses against your SRR can be a helpful measurement of your development as an advantage player....

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html Grading your tosses against your SRR can be a helpful measurement of your development as an advantage player. Grading your tosses against your SRR can be a helpful measurement of your development as an advantage player. Your Sevens to Roll Ratio is your current level of skill to be used in determining what betting ploys you will incorporate into your play at the tables. During your practice session count the tosses it takes you to throw a seven using the same grip and set. I use the following scale to judge my current ability as a humble advantage player. SCALE 1 Pass Line Win 2 Point Seven-Out 3 Need Practice 4 Four no Seven 5 Less than Random Players 6 Average Expectation 7 Now you’re cooking 8 You’re ready 9-12 You should make money 13-16 You’re being watched 17-20 Make sure your tipping 21-25 Get someone to watch your back 25-30 All Star Status 30-49 Expert 50-Up Fifty and Above Club Right now I am an off axis 8.16. I like to think I’m ready for anything but craps has a way of humbling you in a hurry. Try this every time you practice and record it on your calendar. At the end of a week or month see where you are at. It might surprise you. Keep it simple. Charlie009 tag:www.diceinstitute.com,2010:/chuck//7.935 2010-01-25T18:41:29Z 2010-01-25T18:51:04Z

The Fine Line...

Charlie009 http://www.diceinstitute.com/authors/charlie.html The Fine Line]]> Chapter 59 – “The Fine Line” There is a fine line between those who aspirer to be dice setters and those who just set their favorite number on top and pay no attention to what is on the sides of the cubes. Also there is a fine line between the “Dice Influencer” and the random player. That same fine line holds true for the advantage player when it comes to money management and taking advantage of signature numbers. The “Dice Setter” will have a plan to enhance his play by using dice sets that have the least amount of sevens expected. The specific or favorite number player is just trying to look like he knows what he is doing. I know! I’ve been there! I use to shoot from dealer left on the hook by the don’t come area on the layout. I would throw the dice as high as I could with out breaking any chandeliers. I thought it was cool. I put the fives on top because I saw someone else do it. The “Dice Influencer” has a specific plan on what dice set he will use and how he will throw the dice and meet the entire prerequisites of a good consistent toss. His counter part, the random roller, has no idea what he is doing. It’s pick up and throw and pray. The “Advantage Player” will have a betting plan and will take advantage of repeating numbers and known signature numbers. The random roller will bet on anything, especially the proposition bets in the center of the layout. Make sure you develop the ability to become a dice setting influencing advantage player and stay on the right side of that fine line. This article would have fit in at the tail end of Chapter 58 but ended up on the cutting board because of the screw up on page 273. Charlie0091/24/2010 ]]>